How fast do you run your trains? You said 'whizzing', but was that just a figure of speech, or do you actually Another problem with the newer slim couplings is this: if you have tight curves (even radius 4 counts Modern metal wheels do have insulation between the wheel and axle so are fine on two rail (apart from a rogue Collett coach it seems mentioned in a recent post) . I would look at current models of bogie bolsters, or maybe something made by Tri,-ang Hornby, Mainline, Lima or Airfix, GMR. For the purposes of the above paragraph handling is beyond what is necessary to establish the nature, characteristics and functioning of the goods if, in particular, it goes beyond the sort of handling that might reasonably be allowed in a shop.

As there are better models of bogie bolsters available, all this hassle is not really worth the trouble IMHO. These are really for collectors or Dublo fans (like myself). The consumer (you) may cancel the sale at any time in the cancellation period without giving any reason, and without incurring any liability except under these provisions— If the wagons are only intended as scenery and not to be hauled in a train then personally I wouldn't bother to mess about with the couplings.You’ll need to pay close attention to the height the box is mounted at and of course it needs to be on the centre line of the bogie. Although the newer slim coupling looks much better, if you want to go for more reliable operation, standardising on the older style coupling will work better and is easier to achieve - you just have to put up with a chunkier, less This mounting was carried on by Mainline when they took over the Airfix, GMR (Great Model Railways) range. will eventually get around to retooling the Mk 3, but the blue box brigade have taken on the Mk 2 so I suspect it won't be long before they have a go at the Mk3 as well. then guling an NEM slot in various positions to try and achieve a closer fit between coaches. You can get a nice close fit on a train standing still but as soon as you start moving on points or curves then everything starts to derail. The coaches are very

And...no, Hornby Dublo couplings are riveted on, and are therefore not easy to swap for other type of coupling. Graham Farish and Triang however adopted a hook and bar type where a vertical hook dropped over a horizontal loop or bar. The two different types would not couple together reliably so users had to choose one or the other.

We guarantee your satisfaction. All of our products come with a 7 day no quibble guarantee. (Please see our Terms for more information). Reaching Us for now, but how long will that last? They've been phased out from new model designs, you won't be able to get spares forever. That said, Matt is running stuff on very tight curves, so it might actually be a good idea for him. It'll just be a pain if you have fit. There's a reason that the Mk3 comes with the big coupling - they work in nearly all situations - but they really spoil the look of the coaches because they sit so far apart. I've had several attempts at cutting off the big coupling from the bogies and This is a better solution in engineering terms, less of a bodge and stronger, but requires great care when drilling the waggler; hole must be dead central, dead straight, and probably not more than 1mm deep to preserve the structural integrity of the waggler. Deep as you like/all the way through on the bogie. Thank you very much for the suggestion! I'll be able to swap them out on some of the coaches; unfortunately after digging out a few more coaches it seems some of them are from the Railroad range and have the D-rings moulded as part of the bogies directly (picture attached) - I'm not sure how I would go about replacing those.

not the large. Large couplers won't be around forever, using them only would just be storing up problems for the future. Hornby trains come undone from Hornby wagons etc.... The B4CHM4NN couplings also actually sit every so slightly higher up than the Hornby ones. I have tried switching the things around and trying all variations but the bottom line is that the only train i can make go whizzing around my layout without it losing carriages every second circuit or so is the 2nd hand 'Railroad' (BIG couplings) style Flying Scotsman that I got as a present from my mother, which ignited my whole interest to begin with. the wagons refuse to couple unless you slam them into each other - hardly great for realistic shunting. In contrast the wide metal couplings that Tri-ang/Hornby produced, and the plastic ones on the Railroad range work much better on curves.

Normal cancellation period.

For the screw fitting types which 2, 3 and 4 in your pictures appear to be I use Bachmann Mini Loop Screw-On Coupling Short 36-025 I have seen a handful of B-mann wagons that come fitted with Kadee couplers [these - http://www.expressmodels.co.uk/acatalog/kadee-5cm-menu.jpg] I'm not sure why though, those are popular internationally, but not generally used by UK modellers. designs) can have the couplers attached in a verity of different ways, such as older clip-in systems (a bit like NEM, but not - http://www.wonderlandmodels.com/media/managed/large/r8099.jpg), attached with rivets or screws, or of course moulded-on. As previously stated they have metal wheels for the 3 rail system and Dublo couplings. Really to change either/both the bogies need to be removed. They are held by rivets through the wagon floor which have to be drilled out. The coupling rivets can be forced out by a suitable pin (I use a reversed drill bit) in a press or drilled out. Replacedments acn then be bolted on ensuring they are at the correct height. The wheels are released by lifting the tinplate tags which hold bearing plate in place and then fitteing the insulated replacements ideally with pin point bearings. These will need a special short axle.